Printable View
Hi everyone
I need to know what thickness, offset, pcd the OE disc is and if possible a pics of the standard pad so I can see the shape of it. Going to friends tommorow to get caliper bracket made for new calipers and my beat is 100miles away in my garage :-(
Jen
Is the offset and PCD not the same as the wheels themselves?
If you search you should come up with them :)
Hi Jennifer
May i ask why you are changing your disks for other ones?
Ive just had new ones for mine front and back
disks and pads all for £320 fitted
front disks ADH24314 (BLUEPRINT)
PADS PAD (APEC)
REAR DISCS DSK257 (APEC)
PADS PAD 611 (APEC)
All of the shelf moter parts apart from the Blueprint front disk(Sadly had to wait a day):D
Hi ESSON
Ive got some 4 pot calipers which I am adapating for use with the OE disc size, hence why I need the info.
Jen
4 Pots... :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennifer
You hit the brakes too hard and you'll stand the poor thing on it's nose... ;)
Ady.
hehe well I need the extra cushion to stop on should we say. Honda Beat Type R1 launch date = when I save enough to buy the special differential.
You are crazy... Unless you have big 195 tyres or something like that, all that will happen is that the fronts will lock up, giving you less deceleration than the original kit.
lol everyone says that but the car is pretty much custom everything widearches etc so 195s not a problem
OMG. Let's hope you don't roll it as soon as you turn a corner - it's not a very wide car to handle that much grip...
Even with the widened arches, the extra diameter of 195s over standard 155s must mean that there is extremely limited scope for lowering the suspension without some kind of contact being made to the tyre. Have you done that too?
well considering it will have near enough 200bhp fro the R1 engine I think having 195s is more than adequate. Hence the widearches etc
Holy shit, that should be quite something. Given the resulting forces, I'd be a bit worried about the suspension components and also the chassis - it's not got very much torsional rigidity and might wobble itself to bits.
Still, can't help but be very intruiged. 12,500rpm should sound sweet too...
Good luck!
Bruce
Its all been sorted the chassis with the help of some 2nd hand sourced rs mach coilover suspension, chassis brace bars, strut bars. It is going to have a rollcage made for it once the engine work is done.
But this project is a none mover as it has been for the last few months, due to the diff being mega expensive. Going to use this for sprints, few hill climbs and track days.
Is it the white one?
yes it certainly is em, been a good 9 months since Ive drive it now!! But hey good things come to those who wait hey!! Knowing me I will probably see another ickle beat and think I must buy that!
Never seen a white one, you'll have to bring it out to a show or a meet sometime when it's running :)
A roll cage, if connects the front of the cockpit to the rear, would help stiffen the chassis, but I don't see how that would be possible to mount, particularly if you want to keep your soft top. I guess you could just have a rear roll structure. Still, it will heighten the centre of gravity, so, if you fit big tyres too, it would lean quite a lot in hard cornering.
Nah its not a softop anymore perm hardtop. the COG is not a big concern witht he setup I have in mind all advice from rs mach beat gods in my eyes.
Yes em I will get pictures and a detailed build thread up once Ive taken mor epictures
Did this detailed thread every get made?! :o I'm all aquiver with anticipation!
I'm curious as to whether you're using the bike tranny and a chain as ZCars do, or if you mated the R1 engine up to an actual transmission... >.> I always figured you could get an adaptor plate or something like that, and change the final gear ratio to cope with the many many more RPMs and then you'd get to keep reverse as well... No idea if that would work, but I don't see why it wouldn't...
Nice idea, have you checked these 2 things?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennifer
1/ is the master cylinder capable of applyng the correct pressure and fluid quantity otherwise you may find you have a lot more brake pedal travel.or at worst need a lot more foot pressure to stop it!
2/ will the balance between the front and rear brakes be ok?
Nick
Hi eveyrone
not been on in a while due to buying a house and all that goes with it. Due to that nothing has been done mechanicaly only odd and sods bodywork wise and running gear.
Nick I am using an uprated MC with bigger bore and will be running an adjustable AP bias valve once everything else is done.
Pretty similar to Z cars layoyut wise but have been doing lots of research into the gearbox side of things. Good to see everyone still happy and about here!