Printable View
Can anyone out there advise me on how to remove the gudgeon pin from the conrod - piston assembly.
The pins that came with my over bore pistons are simple straight pins as shown in the parts list but the ones in the pistons seem to have a sholder inside in the middle and look like they could be 2 piece pins????
Any advice?
The manual shows special tools, 1 to hold piston and other to driver pin in (presumably with a press)
Should think you could prob make something up to suffice. Otherwise get a local engine builders to pop them on (dont think they are any differant from most other engine, well apart from size)
HTH
I will have a look tomrrow at the beat piston/rods that I have at work on the bench (As at present am rebuilding a Beat engine)
HTH
Thanks for that Steve, I was being a bit weak, they did push out.
Next problem, mainly for Oz, but as a bit of a warning to anyone else considering this option;
The pistons come with a set of gudgeon pins however these pins are too small for the small end on the con rod. The old pins are too big for the new pistons.
Oz any chance you can get ont Feels and see what the solution is. Once I've done the engine I'll post all of what is involved (and the pit falls) and let everyone know what the performance is like.
Hey Steve - Why the engine rebuild? You planning on re-entering the beat world? Would be nice to see some engine build pics from both you and Tim if you guys have them.
Rebuilding Beat engine for someone else, here are a few pics of the the insides of engine.
The pistons
The crank in the block
you can buy an aeresol spray with ice in it which contracts the metal allowing the pin to be driven in and out a little easier most engine builders use it
Tim,
Found a person who speaks fluent English (well American English anyway) at HTC, maybe you can get on to him or mail him directly on this.
Name Nobu Takimoto
Ph +81 480 38 3300 (Sugito Shop)
or email the Sugito shop attn him and he can get the details if you still need them, sorry it took so long.
Cheers
Oz
Thanks for that Oz I'll give him a bell in the morning.
Here is the bottom half of my block for those interested and a pic of the timing marks on the cam pully. They need to line up with the cylinder head.
You can see the two marks on the outer rim of the pully are horizontally in line with the top of the block
I hope you dont time your beat up with the cam set in that position, That not TDC no.1 its 180 degrees out!!!
'Up' should be at the top, but the other marks are correct.
Thanks for pointing out that glaring error. In my defence though It is TDC,,,,,it's just TDC exhaust. Strangely enough the other marks also line up, not that that's a recomendation to try and time it like this.
and the flywheel
HI STEVE.I WENT TO PUT TIMING BELT ON ENGINE TODAY.MY MECHANIC COULD NOT SEE ANY MARKS ON THE ENGINE OR SURROUNDING AREA TO LINE UP WITH THE LINES ON THE CAM SHAFT COG,THE ONE WHERE YOU POINTED IT OUT THAT THE GUY WAS SETTING US HIS ENGINE WRONG.CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME OUT WITH THIS PLEASE.I SHOWED HIM THE PIC AND HE DOESNT JUST WANT TO PUT THE UP MARK IN THE UP POSITION AS IN PIC.ANY HELP APPRECIATED.I OWE U A PINT AFTER ALL THIS.THANKS IN ADVANCE.HOPE TO BE BACK MOTORING VERY SHORTLY.CANT WAIT.BET YOU ALL THOUGHT I HAD GIVEN UP ON IT HA HA.
The marks highlighted with the green arrows should be level with the top surface of the head and the Up mark should be at the top.
so in this pic its 180 degree out.
like this