Issue with the beat

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27-07-2017, 08:10 AM
soongster

Issue with the beat

Hi All, got a problem which I hope someone can help me with.

So I bought the car after it was sitting in the elements for 2 years - hornets nest everywhere. Took a bit of effort to get it started and drove it home. After a couple of months driving, it would shut off randomly and wont start up again for 30 mins or so. sometimes the relay clicks erratically and when this happens the fuel pump will not prime. If I keep turning the key from off to acc, sometimes relay will click once like normal and fuel pump will prime. I have swapped relays with a DIY 5 pin relay and the issue remains. the random shut offs happened 3 times. Each time i was lucky enough to be able to start and drive the car home (after waiting >30 mins that is).

I did some research online and have crossed out the below

- dizzy cap was found to be cracked - so have replaced with new known working dizzy
- lined up dot with line on dizzy and put engine in TDC before inserting dizzy.
- resoldered main relay
- DIYed 5 pin relay
- new spark plugs - checked for spark and they were strong blue sparks
- swapped known working ecu
- injectors were serviced, flow tested and cleaned.

I did a compression test and they were showing 125 on all 3 cylinders....... that looks low to me.. anyone know what the stock number should be?

I will run a wet test soon and see if the numbers change

Any other things i should check?
29-07-2017, 01:49 PM
mikei

If the car was standing for a few years the fuel pump and tank will probably be full of rust and crud
I had a similar problem on a cappo I bought that was standing 4 years ran ok and up to about 2 k then under load was gutless
Removed pump found the mesh type filter completely blocked cleaned out in petrol and it rang much better
But changed it anyway for a cheap eBay special about £30 still running fine now two years on
29-07-2017, 08:26 PM
gymm

Fuel pump relay.
The solder isn't reliable long term. If it is going to work the relay will click after turning the ignition and prime as you state. The click comes from behind the passenger seat. With heat generated from close by, the solder connection might expand and split causing it to fail. When it cools it should work again. Resoldering isn't 100%. I got a replacement from Japan which had the correct bracket so the swap was swift. It didn't take long to come. Only a week I recall. My Honda mechanic mate said that Honda only use 2 types of pump relay. It's the bracket which has to be specific so if you get the dedicated part it will fit easily. My mate recently told me he was surprised at how many Honda Beat spares there are on the ordering system. Those which aren't available can be substituted. The main ecu also suffers heat problems from the engine so I'd ensure it's insulated. I'd change the fuel pump relay to guarantee/eliminate its status. You mentioned it restarted after waiting a while which suggests to me it might be the solder cooling enough to form its circuit etc. (Steve M suggested this to me a few yrs ago.)
In March mine's cam belt went causing a rebuild. Zero compression suggesting new valves needed. My mechanic was brilliant ordering parts from Japan etc. At the same time he replaced the water pump, gaskets etc. We (he) was able to remove the parts he needed without a pit or hoist. One tricky operation involved a lowering and raising stuff to allow things to locate. Honda UK were aware my mate was rebuilding the Beat's engine and they contacted Honda Japan who scanned and converted their very detailed factory manual and sent it to him. Great service which they needn't have done.

I'd replace the cam belt to avoid my situation if I were you. The snapped belt wasn't a Honda one suggesting it'd been replaced and perhaps inferior quality. Perhaps.

Good luck with your project and let us know how you get on.
31-07-2017, 02:21 AM
soongster

Quote:

Originally Posted by gymm

Fuel pump relay.
The solder isn't reliable long term. If it is going to work the relay will click after turning the ignition and prime as you state. The click comes from behind the passenger seat. With heat generated from close by, the solder connection might expand and split causing it to fail. When it cools it should work again. Resoldering isn't 100%.
..........

I have resoldered and even made my own relay with a 5 pin square relay. Had the same issue... which lead me to believe it was not the relay acting up.

Have got a rebuild kit on order from JPY just waiting for final shipping costs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikei

If the car was standing for a few years the fuel pump and tank will probably be full of rust and crud
I had a similar problem on a cappo I bought that was standing 4 years ran ok and up to about 2 k then under load was gutless
Removed pump found the mesh type filter completely blocked cleaned out in petrol and it rang much better
But changed it anyway for a cheap eBay special about £30 still running fine now two years on

Inspecting the tank and the pump has always been on my mind. Will rip it out and have a look. Lucky for me when I had the cappo it was all smiles haha. Seems as though in general the Cappos and AZ-1 have had a better life than the beat.

anyone know what compression i should be at?