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Thread: Fuel pump and main relay replacement part numbers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Fuel pump and main relay replacement part numbers

    Hi. RAC dropped the wife and car off last week. It slowly died and would not start They sprayed some kind of fuel in the air intake and it started. On investing, the main relay clicks but the pump did not run. After a few times powering the ignition on and off, the pump seems to have come back to life. So i can only assume the 10 amp guage fuse is ok but it could be the main relay or the fuel pump. Both parts are now unavailable.

    Does anyone know the part number of an equivalent main relay? RZ-0139?

    And more difficult. Does anyone know a replacement part number for just the equivalent fuel pump motor... To replace just the motor and filter?

    Cheers

    Andy

  2. #2
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    Oct 2009
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    Found this youtube video

    https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...000EFB5F6953C2

    Looks like he replaces the original with a Chin-Ying industries CY-FP80239...……. now to try and find one... and a filter... looks like an awful task.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    99
    I resoldered all the connections on the fuel pump relay PCB and it worked again. Seems it overheats and weakens the joints. I'm sure it clicked but didn't work. This may be a false memory but I remember getting it out was a business. Search for fuel pump relay on here there's a lot of history on this.

    You'll need tin/lead solder.
    Last edited by Andrew Fisher; 07-06-2020 at 03:19 PM.

  4. #4
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    Aug 2002
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    99
    Found this: http://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/showthr...p+relay+solder

    13 and a half years ago!!! Doesn't time fly.

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Oct 2009
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    Hi Andrew,

    Thanks for the info... I had the relay problem before, really annoying fault after the car has been driving for a while and wormed up. Reflowed the solder on the relay as read on this forum and all fixed. This problem is more intermitted and sometimes happens when cold. When it stops starting there looks to be power at the pump but its like the motor is in a position where the brushes are worn and if you try the ignition switch and relay long enough it jumps into action again and works continuously for ages.

    Which is why I am suspicious of the fuel pump motor.

    I will order another relay to eliminate.


    Andy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    99
    Hello Andy

    (sorry for the delay by the way)

    I don't like the sound of it if you get it from cold. I hope a new relay sorts it. I can see why you're suspicious of the motor, but looking at that video replacement is a nightmare!

    Don't ever rule out the ecu on any Beat problem.

    Good luck!

    Andrew

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    103
    hello guys
    just been reading your issue with starting / cutting out
    i have had both these issues on different beats
    no 1= relay issue normally okay on first start up and fails once car has been run and warmed up. leave it to cool down or multiple restarts kicks back in

    no 2 = difficult to start from cold pump is seized then frees up with a tap or multiple starts eventually starts spinning or if its really toast will pull too much current and blow the fuse

    if you havent ordered a relay i always keep 1 in stock. or if you want i can do a refurbished pump assembly with new pump (as in video) currently have 2 pumps in stock
    pumps are exchange basis

    just to let you know andrew the beat i got of you a while back is all repaired and i had to change the relay on that one a few months ago. when all this covid is over will pop over
    im sure you would enjoy another drive in it

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    99
    Hello Mike

    Great to hear from you and great to hear that that Beat is back on the road.

    I hope you sort your problem out soon Andy these cars need to be out in the streets bringing smiles to people's faces.

  10. #10
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    Oct 2009
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    Hi Mike,

    I ordered a replacement pump from Japan. Are your refurbished pump assemblies a genuine honda beat assembly with a replacement motor and the long metal pipe out the top? If so how much money are you looking for with the returns deposit and delivery?

    I am pretty sure now its not the fuse box or relay. Focusing in on the pump.

    Andy

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    103
    Quote Originally Posted by beatbythesea View Post
    Hi Mike,

    I ordered a replacement pump from Japan. Are your refurbished pump assemblies a genuine honda beat assembly with a replacement motor and the long metal pipe out the top? If so how much money are you looking for with the returns deposit and delivery?

    I am pretty sure now its not the fuse box or relay. Focusing in on the pump.

    Andy
    hi forgot to check back on here until now
    if youve already ordered a pump sounds like youre ok now. the assembly i use is original as removed from car. the pump itself is not but is a much higher flow rate. pm or email me if you still need.

  12. #12
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    Oct 2009
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    17
    Hi Mike.

    The pump is actually ok. Really annoying fault. Overnight when the ecu got cold, a solder joint was open circuit; stopping the fuel pump control line to the main relay switching to ground. By the time i had taken the car apart to access the fuel pump to see if voltage was there, it had warmed up and was working.
    Reflowed the offending contacts in the ecu. Now up and running again.
    Lots of spare parts now on their way from Japan. Nevermind its all good.

    Cheers for all the advice. I may add a pdf document of the fault and fix when i get a chance.

    Now to fit the parrot mki9200 system.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    99
    If the fuel pump relay and ECU were somehow under the passenger seat an awful lot of Beat problems would not be problems.

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